Ajja -- Raleigh, NC (Mediterranean cuisine)

This was a literal hidden gem. Located at 209 Bickett Blvd., it took a few circles to find this residential house that was converted into a restaurant, but once it was found, the customer service, ambiance and food was stellar. Our tardiness for our reservation was excused and the friendly enthusiasm to answer any question or refill any beverage was genuine and appreciated. 

The atmosphere was different in each dining section. There was a star-view outdoor space, a brighter plant-filled area and a dimly lit cozy section, which was where I dined, with no complaints. The ever-changing menu followed the season, and each dish was described simply, but everything that appeared to the table was so much more than expected. This is now on my list of favorite restaurants in the country.


https://www.ajjaeats.com/


Here are some of the things I've enjoyed.




Juschu. Made with tequila, fresh lime juice, just enough honey and a few drops of Angostura bitters to add balance. This was highly drinkable, with just enough tartness, sweetness and booziness to pair very nicely with any food.

Warm Marinated Olives. A nice, briny way of opening the palate. Tossed with a bit of citrus, fresh rosemary and olive oil, these were plump and tasty olives. 

Lamb Croquette. A hockey puck-sized portion of potato and tender lamb. This tasty morsel was formed, encrusted with panko and fried until golden and crispy. The herb schug added a delicious and fresh vegetal aroma that contrasted nicely with the tender mixture inside, and the few drops of tomato chutney enhanced the savory aspect of this dish.

Kuku Sabzi. This was like a frittata like I've never seen. Filled with a lot of chopped soft herbs, spinach and walnuts, these flavors were accentuated with earthy fenugreek, creamy labneh, and a savory and sweet tomato chutney.

Warm Moroccan Hummus. The expectation was a simple dip. What was presented was a complex array of components, each with a separate preparation method. The bottom was the chickpea hummus, which would have been delicious on its own. But this was topped with marinated sweet peppers, savory and nutty tahini yogurt, tangy pickled sumac onions, crunchy and whimsical corn flakes, gently spicy chili oil, sweet sultanas and poppy seeds. The house made, warm Turkish bread was crusty on the outside, chewy and fluffy on the inside.  

Carrot Houriya. For those who prefer their veggies to taste somewhat like a dessert, these caramelized carrots were made for those with a sweet tooth. Honey was added to long-cooked, shredded carrots. This was then crowned with aromatic Urfa peppers, creamy and slightly tangy soft goat cheese, sautéed fennel, and crunchy toasted almonds.

Spare Ribs. These ribs were finger-licking good. The North Carolina pork was cooked until toothsome but tender, brushed with a sweet and savory peach amba tamarind glaze. The cooked cabbage added a flavor and textural contrast, and the fresh mint and chives gave each bite a nose-tingling fresh aroma.

Winter Salad. This was a delightful plate of Savoy cabbage, grilled chicories, and laminato kale. The dressing of honey, lemon and herbs tempered the bitterness of the strong cruciferous vegetables without overpowering them completely. The candied dukkah, mint and pickled red onion added a very diverse array of flavors and textures.

Dayboat Shrimp. This was an expertly prepared plate of seafood. The shrimp were snappy and fresh, perfectly seasoned with harissa and thoughtfully paired with al dente Sea Island rice peas, fresh and zesty mustard greens, and fragrant wild rice. 

Lemon-Saffron Posset. I am a bit of a sucker for any dessert that resembles a custard and this was another delightfully presented dish with hits to all the taste buds. The posset had the perfect texture, not too soft, but not too firm and was balanced with the lemon tartness and sweetness. The apricot persimmon sauce was just enough, the candied blood orange and kumquat was pleasantly surprising, the brûléed meringue made a gently sweetened cloud look and feel overly indulgent and the toasted almonds mixed it up with a wonderful crunch.

This was an incredibly memorable and interesting meal in a very memorable and interesting restaurant. The innovative flavor and textural combinations and presentations will keep this establishment on my list of favorite restaurants in the U.S.