The allure of Iceland has stuck with me over the last 10 years, since my last visit in 2014. My second visit almost felt like the first: full of amazement at the fresh air, clean water and fantastic food. The landscape is still just as beautiful with shiny black pebble beaches, dazzling waterfalls, and majestic scenery. There is no need to worry about taking a bad photo, it's almost impossible.
The demographics have changed a bit, for the better, in my humble opinion. The spike in immigration within the last few years has made for a more diverse array of citizens, which also includes a more diverse array of restaurants. It's always interesting to experience how a place can influence a specific type of ethnic cuisine, and I enjoyed every bite!
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| Kirkjufell. 463 meters high. Snaefellsnes Peninsula. |
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| Djúpalónssandur. A beautiful black pebble beach with speckles of seaweed on a windy day. |
Dragon Dim Sum, Iceland
Geirsgata 9, 101 Reykjavik
Inspired by the traditional food and dim sum of Taiwan and southern China, this restaurant followed the fundamentals, while at the same time, played with flavors and interesting combinations. Using local and non-local ingredients from nearby Thailand, these ideas created a truly Icelandic version of dumplings. The smells invoked nostalgia for me, while the taste piqued my curiosity as to how these creative combos came to be.
Pork and Shrimp. Steamed shao mai, filled with minced pork, diced shrimp, shiitake mushrooms and five spice. Although not what I'm typically used to, these were still very delicious. The garnish of fermented black beans (which are actually soy beans) and fried onion added a contrast of textures and flavors that paired very nicely with the juicy filling.
Kimchi. Fermented napa cabbage and daikon radish, this side dish was tangy with a touch of spice, and very tasty. Not as crunchy as I would prefer, but still worked well to cleanse the palate.
Chili Chicken Wontons. This might have been a bit of a leap, but these made me think of buffalo chicken wings. Not so much in taste, but in the textural components. Crunchy on the outside, juicy chicken on the inside and coated with a sticky, sweet and savory chili glaze. The pickled onions also added a nice acidic element.
Beef Baozi. Fluffy pillows of steamed dough were filled with braised, shredded brisket that was moist and tender. The Sichuan peppercorn and chili seasonings were not too pungent and very flavorful. The drizzle of fermented black bean chili sauce and green onion gave the savory flavors a nice zesty and fresh contrast.
Inside the Beef Baozi.
Shrimp Jiaozi. These were filled with snappy shrimp and ginger. The fried garlic and fresh lemon zest sprinkled on top was an interesting and aromatic garnish that enhanced all the flavors of this dish.
Steamed Broccolini & Sesame Soy Dressing. Iceland has made some really interesting innovations in the realm of growing fresh vegetables. Hot houses and green houses are frequently used in this cold climate, and items are also now imported from neighboring Thailand and other countries. This vegetable dish tasted very fresh and was steamed until just al dente. The sesame soy dressing had a great combination of sweet, savory, tangy and creamy.
Star Anise Coated Doughnuts & Lemon Curd. These were freshly fried balls of dough, then coated in sugar and star anise. The candied lemon zest and perfectly balanced lemon curd made this dessert a delightful end to a meal full of surprises.
Sandholt
Laugavegur 36, 101 Reykjavík One of the oldest operating bakeries in Iceland, this establishment is family-run, now on its fourth generation. Upholding tradition is one of their pursuits while adapting to the changing tides and tastes, is another. This is a place where one can get a rustic sourdough toast with butter, chia pudding and internationally inspired entrées in one place, to dine in or take away.
Flat White. The practice of lighter roasting in Iceland really allows the fruity notes of coffee beans to come through. This coffee drink was more coffee forward, had great body and was a very comforting cup of brew.
Hot Chocolate. It's always great to have a simple item that was made with care. This tasted like real chocolate, sweetened just enough to bring out the chocolate flavors, and frothed until wonderfully foamy. Icelandic dairy is my favorite and the whipped cream added a great texture to this cup of warmth.
Croissant. Anything made with Icelandic butter is good. This croissant was no exception, and it was flaky, buttery, moist on the inside and very satisfying.
Waffle. This waffle was crisp on the outside and fluffy and moist on the inside. Topped with a yolky fried egg, crispy and salty bacon and a slightly tangy cream cheese dressing, this was a hearty, decadent breakfast.
Shakshuka. A decent rendition of this dish in spite of the tinned tomatoes, which I was expecting, given the climate in Iceland. But the two perfectly fried eggs with runny yolks, savory Italian pork sausage, fragrant sourdough bread, and herb-infused whipped butter still made this a tasty meal.
Smoked Salmon Sandwich. The bread at this bakery is really the star. The fluffy Ciabatta had a wonderful cornmeal dusted crust and chewy interior. To enhance its flavor, it was filled with smoked salmon, pickled cucumbers, cream cheese, capers and fresh greens.
BLTE. A classic sandwich made better with Icelandic ingredients and the same delicious Ciabatta. This was a wonderful combination of crispy, salty bacon, fresh lettuce and tomato, creamy avocado dressing and a fried egg.
Bánh MìLaugavegur 107, ReykjavíkThis food stall is located in the Hlemmur Food Hall, right near several bus stops, for convenience. The service was quick and this Vietnamese establishment used Icelandic ingredients. I only ordered a couple sandwiches for our flight back home on this visit, but I will definitely go back to try the other hot and cold entrées next time.
Banh Mi Classic. The fluffy baguette-style bread was stuffed with fall-apart tender, slow-cooked pork shoulder, crunchy fresh cucumber, pickled carrots, pickled daikon, aromatic fried onions, fresh coriander (cilantro), mild chili and mayonnaise. I very much enjoyed this sandwich.
Banh Mi Marinaded Pork. This sandwich was filled with sliced pork, marinaded in a soy sauce-based sweet and savory glaze. The meat was then grilled until a bit crispy on the edges and served with the usual accoutrements of fresh cucumber, pickled carrots, pickled daikon, fried onions, fresh coriander (cilantro), chili and mayonnaise. Another delicious option.
Fine Restaurant
Rauðarárstígur 33, 105 Reykjavik
This may have been the most traditional Chinese restaurant I was able to visit on this trip, and I was instantly comforted by the familiar scents and sounds of wok cooking as soon as I walked in. The service was a bit relaxed but effective, and the food, made with Icelandic ingredients, was delicious.
Deep Fried Chicken Dumplings. A familiar favorite, these were crunchy on the outside and juicy on the inside. The sweet chili dipping sauce complemented these delightful morsels very well.
Deep Fried Chips. A surprising standout, these were so satisfyingly crispy on the outside and mashed potato-y on the inside. The sprinkle of Szechuan peppercorn, star anise and chili powder made this a very aromatic and fantastically tasty appetizer.
Braised Lamb. Icelandic lamb is one of my favorite lambs of the world. These rib pieces were braised until tender in a soy and black pepper sauce. Each bite had incredible flavor, the chili added just enough of a tickle, and every piece was devoured.
Pork Dumplings. A classic boiled dumpling done very well. The minced pork was seasoned properly and very juicy. The Chinese black vinegar added a nice acidic component to these savory dumplings.
Sliced Fish in Chili Oil. This dish is a perfect example of getting great surprises when you're not quite sure what you're ordering. I was expecting a white fish of some sort, but what I got was a dish that made me think I was eating beef liver. The hearty texture and mineral quality were aspects I truly enjoyed, and I asked the proprietor what type of fish this was. After a bit of figuring, given his limited English, this turned out to be whale. Some might find this horrific, but rest assured, Iceland's laws managing the fishing and consumption of whale is extremely strict and highly regulated. It is also, in my opinion, very delicious. The quick stir fry in garlic, chili and onion made this a very memorable dish.
Braised Pork Belly. The versatile sweet and soy-based sauce was used in this dish as well, but this fatty, long-cooked protein lent a luscious, melt-in-your-mouth texture to each bite. Another winner.
Sker Restaurant
Ólafsbraut 19, 355 ÓlafsvíkDuring an overnight excursion to the Snaefellsnes peninsula, this was a surprisingly delightful restaurant in an otherwise fairly remote location. This family-owned and operated restaurant has ties to the fishing industry and that aspect was showcased with the sheer number of delicious-sounding seafood offerings. The menu used fresh, local ingredients and included Icelandic variations of international favorites, like pizza and chicken wings. The elegant, artful decor, beautiful mountain views and amazing food made me feel like I was in a dreamland.
Einstök Arctic Pale Ale. This beer is available in America, but it somehow tastes better in Iceland. At 5.6% ABV, the citrus and piney notes from the American and Bavarian hops come through without too much bitterness due to the floral aromas. A highly drinkable beer that pairs with most foods.
Cod from Breiðafjörður. Freshly caught and perfectly pan-seared cod was bedight with al dente cauliflower and creamy, buttery mashed potato. The yuzu butter and pomegranate added a nice tangy contrast to an amazing dish. The garnish of crispy, fried herbs was also a nice touch.
BBQ Ribs. These were very impressive ribs. I was not expecting the whole rack, but that's what I got, and I did not complain. These were succulent, tender, juicy pork ribs with two bbq sauces. One was a sweet, savory and tangy American-style red sauce and the other was a nod to Iceland's fantastic dairy, a creamy non-sour and gently seasoned sour cream. The crinkle-cut fries were supremely crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, the red cabbage slaw was tangy and crunchy, the three onion rings were also very crisp and a nice little extra side, and the sprinkle of wasabi nuts over the top added a nice texture with minimal nose-clearing ability. Absolutely superb.
KröstLaugavegur 107, 105 ReykjavíkAlso located in the Hlemmur Food Hall, this spot has a few counter seats. This tiny kitchen's capabilities were quite deceiving given the quantity, speed and caliber of food that came out of this small space.
Brennivín Rúgbraud Edition Aquavit. A 40% ABV vodka-like spirit. Infused with Icelandic steamed, not baked, dark rye bread. This bread was soaked in the neutral spirit for two weeks and then filtered before bottling. This leaves notes of molasses and a floral quality that is like no other. A wonderful sipping spirit.
Reykjavík Pink Gin. At 38% ABV, this is a fairly light spirit. The typical juniper aromas are further enhanced with lemon, caraway, fennel and licorice. The end note of strawberry add a delicate, sweet flavor and also makes this a fantastic sipping spirit.
Bistro Fries. Served with a house-made mayo and some Kröst sauce, which was a very tomato forward house-made ketchup that was a bit sweet, a bit savory and packed with umami. These fries were super crispy and were highly addictive.
Arancini di Riso. Covered in a blanket of Parmigiano Reggiano, these crispy risotto balls were properly cooked rice, mixed with savory wild mushrooms. The bed of marinara sauce was a perfect pairing, and three balls were a hundred too few.
Grilled Shrimps. One cannot go wrong with seafood in Iceland. These bouncy shrimps were fresh, fragranced with garlic and parsley, balanced with lemon juice, and enriched with a bit of habanero and olive oil. The toasted sourdough bread on the side did a good job of soaking up all that wonderful flavor.
Duck Confit. This leg from one of my favorite game birds was falling off the bone, seasoned just so and accompanied with smooth garlic potato puree, a savory mushroom glaze, and tart green apples. My pet peeve of duck from most restaurants, is that it's frequently served in an overly sweet fruit sauce. This was a well-balanced, savory and very delicious plate.
ROK
Frakkastígur 26a, 101 ReykjavíkThis restaurant includes a menu that has something for everyone. One can choose from a variety of meat, seafood, veggies and dessert. One can also get breakfast, lunch, dinner or snacks during most hours, every day of the week, happy hour included. I may have gorged myself a bit during my visit, but I have no regrets.
Organic Sourdough Bread and Butter. Fragrant, chewy and crusty organic wheat bread with a touch of natural sourness. This was toasted perfectly and served with my favorite: Icelandic butter.
Lemon Cured Salmon. One of Iceland's greatest products, salmon, was salted with lemon. This was sliced thin and served with a creamy, ashen goat cheese, pickled cucumber and fresh dill on toasted baguette. Two perfectly balanced bites with the buttery fish, sour pickles, creamy cheese, aromatic herbs and crisp bread.
Langoustine. Another favorite seafood item, these little crustaceans remind me of shrimp and lobster all in one. The cooked green apples added a sweet and tangy complexity to the dish and the garlic, onion and cream sauce was rich and velvety.
Cured Reindeer. This is probably my preferred red meat, so it's too bad it's not available in the U.S. This had a soft but slightly chewy (in a good way) texture, seasoned throughout and enhanced by mild blue cheese, almonds, burnt butter, pickled red onion and fresh herbs.
Duck Confit. Tender, falling apart duck was topped with crispy bacon and well-cooked potatoes. The bourguignon sauce tasted like it was reduced for hours and was packed with savory, umami goodness.
Wild Mushroom Risotto. This had a different texture than a risotto from Italy. The rice was nicely cooked, although each grain remained a bit more separate from each other. The red wine sauce was reduced and delectable with the mushrooms, as well as Parmigiano Regianno.
Icelandic Char. This fish has similarities to rainbow trout, but a bit firmer. The potatoes were nicely roasted with herbs and the couscous salad was al dente and a bit tangy from the capers. The butter and caramelized onions added a wonderful sweetness, and the fresh microgreens and twist of lemon gave this dish a nice balance of freshness.
Beef Tenderloin. The same nicely roasted potatoes as the fish, of which I did not mind having more. The house made aioli was rich and creamy, along with a fresh and vibrant chimi churi. The beef was cooked to my liking, with plenty of pink and was juicy, tender and delicious.
Brownie. This was a good rendition of a brownie. Not too sweet, chocolaty and moist. Hazelnuts are one of my favorite types of nuts and the freeze-dried strawberries and house made whipped cream added plenty of contrasting flavors and textures to this dessert.
Gaeta
Another fantastic find in the Hlemmur Food Hall, which I visited several times, since it was so close to my hotel. This was traditionally made gelato, using Icelandic milk and some Italian ingredients. A very dense, richer and creamier version of gelato than what I tasted in Italy. Not too sweet with pronounced, real flavors. This was a fun and enjoyable treat.
Waffle cone. The cone and cookie/spoon were freshly made, buttery, crisp and fantastic.
Mint and Chocolate. Very minty with big chunks of dark chocolate.
Oreo. Chunks of the American favorite mixed with creamy, rich gelato.
Espresso and Chocolate Chips. Very coffee-forward with wonderful chocolate chip bites.
This was another highly enjoyable trip, full of wonderful views, food and interactions with the people of Iceland. I hope to come back many more times.
