Michael Warring--Vallejo, CA (molecular gastronomy)

A special treat came in the form of a very upscale dinner, but in a comfortable, small, casual but elegant space, run by two very talented restaurateurs. One is the chef (or artist really) and the other runs the house. This dynamic duo does everything from taking reservations, to serving, to creating the menu and much much more. I was in awe at how seamlessly everything came together during dinner service. Located at 8300 Bennington Drive, I would not expect such a scenic, quiet, farm-land area to have this gem of a restaurant within a tiny strip mall. I look forward to my next birthday or anniversary or any other special occasion as an excuse to have this experience again.

Here are some of the things I've enjoyed.

http://www.michaelwarring.com


Einstok Arctic Pale Ale. From Iceland, this pale ale is light enough to pair with any food but still full of flavor. The bit of malt, some fruity notes and a bit of hops keeps the palate interested and refreshed.

Trebbiano, Lazzari 'Fausto'. From Capriano del Colle in Italy. This was a full-bodied and flavorful white that did not have a lot of tongue-coating tannins or too much tang. It was subtle initially, rounded and a bit sweet in the middle with a nice, cool finish. A very nice white.

Stone Fruit. This was a fantastic fresh fruit starter made with fresh nectarines, Sabayon foam, oatmeal streusel, and wood sorrel. The vinaigrette delicately coated each piece of fruit and had the perfect amount of acid. Each component reminded me that food should be well balanced and satisfy not just the taste buds, but also the texture component. This was sweet, savory, tangy, crunchy and vegetal all in one bite.

Albacore. Raw fish might be something one thinks about with Japanese or Latin cuisine. This was neither, very imaginative and exceptionally crafted. Beautifully plated with sweet fig, wonderfully-complex aged balsamic, thai basil, radish, turnip, silky smooth foie gras, and topped with salty bottarga. This was probably the best few bites of food I've had all year. I was very impressed with this dish.

Agnolotti. I've always wondered how I could get more runny egg yolk in my life. Now I know I can line the bottom of a dish with it and top it with delicious pasta filled with polenta, then top that with black truffle, squash blossoms and popcorn emulsion. I'm not a big popcorn fan, but the essence of popcorn over this dish was very interesting.

Bavette of Beef. A perfectly medium rare cube of beef was seared in butter, topped with savory chanterelle mushrooms, brown butter powder, jus and red dandelion. I don't eat a lot of red meat, but this was just right.

Cheese Cart. The best thing about aged cheeses is how intense the flavors become. To have it with toasted brioche and apricot preserve puts it over the top. The aged goat cheese (on top) was my favorite. It was sharp, crumbly on the plate but creamy on the tongue. I don't remember what the other cheeses were, but the one in the middle was a softer, brie-like cheese and the bottom was a firm, nutty cheese. All were very good.

Aerated Olive Oil Cake. This was a very light and fluffy piece of incredibly moist cake. I love that I could see the specks of vanilla in the anglaise. The lemon balm and rich chocolate ganache rounded out the dish very nicely and the fried herbs added a nice texture in an otherwise, very soft dish.

German Chocolate Cake truffle. Another bite of food might have been too much at this point, but who can resist a truffle? This exquisitely-made chocolate closed out the evening very elegantly.

I did not expect to spend two hours for dinner, but the pacing of the courses actually made it possible to enjoy every morsel on every plate. The entertainment value of chatting with nearby folks and watching the cooking happening right in front of me, while sitting at the counter, also made for a very nice evening. I will save my nickles while I look forward to my next visit.