Himalayan Mountains Area, Nepal (various eateries)

I recently went on an 11-day trek in the Annapurna Sanctuary Region of Nepal with a few days in the cities of Kathmandu and Pokhara. I tried to select the most authentic foods I could, given the menu provided on the trekking part of the trip. Since this was basically a pre-paid tour, the selection was mostly for tourists, but if asked, the cook was willing to prepare traditional food for an interested traveler. I did, however get some local, non-touristy food when I was exploring the cities of Pokhara and Kathmandu before and after the trekking was over.

I was rather impressed and at the same time disappointed with how available modern conveniences were in the mountains. The "tea houses" were more like quickly constructed Motel 6 hotels and we had a bed and a shower every night. I did find it interesting that in Nepal, people ate basically the same thing for lunch and dinner every day (dal bhat). It consisted of rice, curried vegetables, dal, greens, and some type of pickled vegetable (typically turnip). It was slightly different everywhere I went, depending on who the cook was and whether or not meat was available (usually chicken). But I ended up enjoying it immensely.

Here were some of the things I enjoyed.

I had two layovers in China on my way to Nepal. The airport food in Shanghai and Kun Ming were not bad.


Shanghai International Airport
This airport seemed like it was permanently under construction. The air was stagnant and muggy and the "smoking rooms" were not air tight. The food options seemed decent though. I also liked the free hot, warm or cold water stations.

Hopestar Cafe

Won Ton Noodle Soup. With pork and shrimp. Quickly made but satisfying nonetheless. The broth had MSG but I, surprisingly, did not get a headache as I normally do.

Roasted Chicken Feet. Salty with a little sweet heat. Not for the faint of heart. Served with boiled peanuts under the feet.

Pork and Cabbage Dumplings. Hot and filling.

Kun Ming International Airport
There were actually a good number of places for food at this airport. The only problem is the airport shuts down from 12:30-5:30am. So if you have an overnight layover, as I did, you'll have to prepare with your own brought snacks, or try to sleep.

Beef Noodle Soup. This was a tasty bowl of braised beef and pickled bamboo shoots. The broth also had MSG, but still no headache.

Pork Noodle Soup. Another tasty bowl of noodles. This one had bits of ground pork, pickled mustard greens and chili sauce.

Bhojan Griha
Dillibazar, Kathmandu
This was the restaurant where we had our first official Nepali meal. They livened up the atmosphere with floor seating and traditional folk dancing in between entrees.


Wine. The typical Nepali wine, which apparently, many people make for themselves using millet and rice. It was strikingly similar to sake. This one was fairly mellow with a strong grain taste, but had a clean finish.

Curried Potatoes. Cooked with cumin seeds and spices, this was a tasty way to start the meal.

Momos. These are the Nepali version of dumplings. They had chicken, cabbage and spices and served with a tomato-based chutney.

Dal Bhat. Typically, this is what dal bhat looks like. A large plate/platter of rice, greens and this one included green beans, fried fish (actually really good despite no ocean near Nepal), and chicken.

Dal. A soupy mix of cooked lentils and spices. This is usually poured over the rice and mixed with everything else.

Yogurt. A sweetened yogurt was served for dessert. I love yogurt in other countries. They're usually made with full-fat milk and has tons of flavor. This one was no exception.

Masala Tea. Similar to chai tea, this black tea had spices mixed in as well. Sweet and hot. A very nice end to a delicious meal.

Angan Pashupati Foods
Thirbum Marg, Kathmandu
This chain of food stores has locations in Nepal, India, United Arab Emirates and New Zealand. This particular store only carried Nepali sweets and I felt compelled to purchase some. The sweets I had when I traveled to India were fantastic and I was hopeful these would be good as well.

On the top were sweets made with some kind of nut paste; similar to marzipan. The silver is edible decoration. The bottom sweets were made with chopped pistachios, cashews, dates and rolled into a seed of some sort. They were both lightly sweet and very tasty.

During the trek

Tadapani Village
This was one of the villages where we spent the night while on the Annapurna trail. Matching dishware and things of that nature are not a concern in developing countries. There were a number of mugs with various pictographs or sayings that were hilarious just because of the context. Below was one of them.

Mint tea. We had tea at least five times a day during the trek. This was probably a good thing since it gave us an excuse to rest and also re-hydrate from all the hiking. The mint tea was hot, tasty and slightly different at every tea house. The price for a mug of tea was approximately equivalent to seven cents.

Dried Buffalo. This was in a private home of one the tea house owners. We got an invitation to come in because our trekking guide was friends with the owner. It was a two-room house but they had everything they needed. This included strips of buffalo meat drying over the furnace.

The proprietor let us sample some of the dried buffalo. He quickly sauteed a few pieces with a magical mix of spices. It was spicy, flavorful and had a chewiness akin to thick beef jerky. This might have been one of the best things I ate during the whole trip.

Gorhka Beer. I'm still amazed that so much bottled beer was available in the mountains. These have to be carried up to each tea house using either donkeys or Porters. Gorkha is a city in Nepal. The Gorkha people are known for their braveness and in history, have been warriors.

Khukri Rum. A mildly smokey rum that actually tasted really good with some hot lemon tea. This was also widely available.

Chhomrong Village.

Nepali Breakfast. After I started asking for Nepali breakfasts, I started enjoying breakfast a lot more. This was grilled flat bread with a hard-boiled egg, fried bread and curried potatoes. So delicious.

Jhinu Village.

Curry Chicken. Spicy chicken curry served with rice. The curry was ridiculously flavorful and satisfying. There was a festival going on at this time so the Chef really stepped it up at this tea house.

Nepali Breakfast. Fried bread with curried potato and tomatoes. Perfectly balanced with sweet and savory. The fried bread was crisp on the outside and fluffy and moist on the inside. So good.

Encounter Nepal Restaurant
400m Thamel North, City Center, Kathmandu
This was our last meal with the touring company. They really splurged on this one. There was not a set menu and we were encouraged to order "anything" we liked.


Nepali Soup. This was a very savory, brothy soup that tasted like some parmesan cheese rind was cooked in it. It also had small bits of vegetables and a hint of tomato. Outstanding.

Grilled Chicken. Tender pieces of meaty chicken were brought to the table sizzling on this hot plate. Not sure what the mix of spices were but it was very delicious.

Beekti Fish. This amazingly buttery piece of African Beekti was sauteed in garlic and other spices and served with roasted potatoes in a tomato-based sauce. Nepal is not a seafood country since it's landlocked, but this imported fish was very well prepared and fantastically tasty.

Atithi Resort and Spa
Shanti Patan, Lakeside, Pokhara
http://www.atithiresort.com/
This might have been the fanciest hotel I visited during this trip. With marble floors, a spa and top-notch service, they really left me feeling very pampered.

Dal Bhat. This was the fanciest and the best (in my opinion) dal bhat during my whole trip. With yogurt, perfectly sauteed greens, curried potatoes, flavorful chicken, curried vegetables, dal and a crispy flat bread, my taste buds were very happy.

Hot Lemon Honey. I had this particular drink many times but this was the nicest looking one I had. It was perfectly balanced with the tart lemon juice and sweet honey.

Thakali Kitchen
Barahi Chowk, Lakeside-6, Pokhara
Situated right in the heart of downtown, Thakali Kitchen welcomed locals and tourists alike. With a small but traditional menu, they had everything I wanted, including a shower in the restaurant, which I thought was amusing, and balcony seating.


Jomsom Potatoes. Thick slices of a waxy potato were fried in butter and served with a "special" chilly powder flavored with wild green pepper.

Thakali Sukuti. Dried mountain goat. This tasted like it was marinated in a wonderful mix of spices before being dried. It was served simply with cucumbers, onion, tomato and ginger. Delicious.

Street Food
Walking around Kathmandu was like inundating all your senses all at the same time. There were so many things to look at, hear, smell, taste, touch while at the same time trying not to get lost on nameless streets or twisting your ankle on the uneven pavement. I found a few vendors frying delightful things on the walkway or displaying colorful goodies in tiny open stores. I wanted to explore each and every one of them, but time was not on my side. Below were a few things I enjoyed.

Donuts. When I asked a local what the round items were on the left, I was told they were called "donuts". These were not like any American donut I've eaten though. They had a cornmeal texture that was very pleasing and it had a bit of sweet mixed with savory. It was crunchy on the outside and spongy on the inside. They were so good, I wish I bought more. The item on the right was also fried dough that was then soaked in a saffron syrup. Also tasty.

Sweets. I found a store selling sweets while walking around Kathmandu. I asked for a box and just selected what looked good. I have no idea what any of these were called or what they were made of, but each one had a distinctive taste and texture with different spices, nuts and fruits and were very enjoyable.

If I listened to the guide books, I would have eaten the same thing every day and have thought Nepali food was rather boring. But the fact is, Nepal, rich in history and spices, has a wide variety of foods if one is open-minded enough to try the unfamiliar.

Also, if one were to ask the question: "Why go trekking in Nepal?" Here is one answer. The view.

Old Skool Cafe--San Francisco (Soul Food)

Old Skool Cafe, located at 1429 Mendell Street in the Bayview district, is a grass-roots organization founded by youth-oriented individuals who just want to help inner-city kids. The program helps 16-24 year olds acquire skills for living a successful life while earning a paycheck. In 2005, this youth-run supper club/internship program began and is still going strong today. Not only have they created a great working/learning environment for the kids, but they've also created a warm and inviting 1940's-themed ambiance for patrons with lively music and fantastic food.

Here are some of the things I've enjoyed.

http://www.oldskoolcafe.org/


DeSante L'Atelier 2012 Sauvignon Blanc from Semillon, Napa Valley. A nice light white blend with subtle citrus notes and a clean finish.

Sweet Potato Biscuits. These were dense but soft and moist biscuits drizzled with honey butter. Great for sopping up sauces too.

Mac & Cheese. Each fork-full came with a long stretch of melty Cheddar cheesy goodness. A nice side.

Blackened Catfish. One of the juiciest pan-seared fillets I've had. Well seasoned with Cajun spices, served with cranberry and almond couscous and some tasty collard greens.

Bayview Baby Back Ribs. These slow-cooked grilled ribs were served with spicy-sweet coleslaw and a house made blackstrap molasses BBQ sauce. These were so tender, meaty, succulent and had excellent flavor. The sauce was not necessary but enhanced an already excellent dish.

Lavender Cheesecake. This was a creamy cheesecake with a lavender-infused crust. Sweet fresh strawberries rounded out the flavors nicely.

Buttermilk Panna Cotta. This was an interesting use of buttermilk. The panna cotta was mildly tart but balanced with the strawberry-balsamic coulis and fresh strawberries on top. Light and creamy, this was a great way to end a meal.

If not to support this neighborhood's innovative program that helps inner-city kids, at least come visit for the excellent food and stellar service. 

Hard Water--San Francisco (Whiskey Bar/New Orleans style food)

From the people who gave us The Slanted Door at the Ferry Building, we have now been gifted an American Whiskey Bar re-imagined with old-world style mixed with new-world ideas. Located near the Ferry Building at Pier 3 at the Embarcadero, Hard Water is a counter/bar-seating-only establishment with a vast selection of Whiskeys that can be paired with delicious New Orleans-style cuisine.

Here are some of the things I've enjoyed.

http://hardwaterbar.com/


Old Fashioned. Made with Prichard's Rye Whiskey, bitters and sugar, this was a little sweeter than I'm used to but still very enjoyable.

Manhattan. A nice balance of sweet vermouth and whiskey, this is always a good standby cocktail.

Mint Julep. Well-balanced with Old Grand Dad bonded, gum syrup, mint and crushed ice. A very refreshing drink on a warm day.

Sazerac. Made with High West Double Rye, Absinthe and bitters, this was a slightly sweeter version than I'm used to but still went down very easy.

Dirty Rice. Made with chicken liver and ground pork, they were not afraid to actually keep the liver a bit chunky. Definitely a winner for this liver lover.

Pork Belly Crackling. Fried nuggets of porky goodness seasoned with Cajun spice, lemon and scallions. Crunchy, meaty, very savory and satisfying. I could eat these all day.

Boudin Balls. Filled with sausage and well seasoned, these balls were crunchy and delicious.

Andouille Sausage & Chicken Gumbo. With okra, peppers, and popcorn rice, this had a nice mildly spicy base with fresh and tasty veggies and meat.

Pan-seared Fish. This was an expertly prepared white fish. It had a nice light crust on the outside and seared until just done. It was flaky with a mildly sweet and tender flesh. This was served with some black eyed peas and topped with sauteed fava beans, corn, peppers and super sweet cherry tomatoes. Delicious.

I was too full to try any of their desserts but they sounded good. My only complaint would be the stools are not so comfortable for people under 5' 6" (I am 5' 2"). But other than that, it's a great place to enjoy a nice cocktail and meal.

Kingston 11--Oakland (Caribbean cuisine)

It's always nice to have some spice in your life. Kingston 11, located at 2270 Telegraph Avenue, has the right mix of flavors in their dishes, with a lively atmosphere for those who want good music, good food and a welcoming, friendly place to hang out.

Not only does Kingston 11 have incredible food, but they're also founded by community-conscious individuals who use high-quality, environmentally-friendly, local and organic ingredients in their dishes. Plus, with an emphasis on flavors inspired by Jamaican home cooking, how can you go wrong?

Here are some of the things I've enjoyed.

www.kingston11eats.com


Sorrel. A housemade traditional beverage brewed with hibiscus, ginger and spices. Fruity and refreshing.

Salt Fish Fritters. Served with an organic dairy- and nut-free chimichurri sauce, these were fishy in all the right ways.

Curry Vegetables. A flavorful curry sauce gently bathed a plate of fresh broccoli, cauliflower, carrot and potato. This was served with brown rice, beans and plantains. The vegetables were not cooked until disintegrated and were cut into nice, hearty sizes. There was no missing of the meat with fabulous flavor like this.

Oxtail Stew. Rich, tender and succulent oxtail were braised for hours in a thick, hearty sauce. The meat just fell apart with the slightest prodding from the spoon.

Curry Goat. Only served Thursday-Saturday, this goat was rich, tasty, moist and gave its all to this dish. I would definitely come back for this one.

Kingston 11 is also open for lunch Tuesdays through Fridays, and brunch on Sundays. With entrees for carnivores, herbivores and vegans alike, there's something here for everyone.

Coffee Shortbread Cookies (Recipe)

I've been experimenting with different ways of enjoying coffee. How about a coffee shortbread cookie to go with your morning cup of joe? Sounds good to me. This recipe requires a bit of work to make some of the ingredients, but the end result makes it all worth while.

Here's what you'll need:
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 stick unsalted butter, softened
1/2 cup powdered sugar
1/4 cup coffee simple syrup (recipe follows)
1/4 cup reduced espresso (recipe follows)
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1 tsp. coffee bitters (recipe follows)
Pinch salt
1/4 cup of large dark chocolate chips (optional)

Coffee Simple Syrup
Very coarsely grind 2 tbsp. coffee beans.
Add 1 cup of sugar and 1 cup of water to a small pot.
Bring to a boil, then turn off the heat.
Add the coffee grounds and let steep for 10 minutes.
Strain out coffee grounds.
Let the coffee simple syrup cool and set aside.
This can keep in the fridge for up to 1 month or in the freezer almost indefinitely.
You can use this to sweeten other baked goods or add into cocktails.

Reduced Espresso
This works great if you have your own espresso machine. If not, brewed coffee works as well.
Take 1 cup of espresso or 1 1/2 cups brewed coffee and pour into a small pot.
Bring to a boil then reduce the heat to low and let simmer until reduced to about 1/4 cup (20-30 minutes).
Let cool and set aside.

Coffee Bitters
This recipe takes about a week and a half or so of inactive time.
Take 2 ounces of a 100 proof alcohol, like Buffalo Trace White Dog, and place in a mason jar.
Very coarsely grind 1 tbsp. coffee beans and add to the spirit.
Seal with the lid and let sit for about 4-6 days or until the coffee smell is very strong.
Strain out the grounds and place in 2 ounces of filtered or distilled water. Keep the coffee-infused spirit in the mason jar with the lid on.
Let the grounds sit in the water for another 2-3 days.
Filter out the grounds and add the water to the spirit.
Now you have coffee bitters.
This will keep indefinitely since the alcohol is very strong. You can use this to flavor other things as well, such as cocktails or other baked goods.

Here's what you'll do:
- Preheat oven to 375 degrees.
- In the bowl of a standing mixer, add the softened butter and powdered sugar.
- Using the paddle attachment, mix on low at first, then switch to high until the butter and sugar are light and fluffy (about 3 minutes).
- Add the coffee simple syrup, coffee bitters, vanilla extract and reduced espresso and mix again until all incorporated and fluffy (about 2 minutes).
- Add the flour and salt and mix until the dough comes together.
- With a medium ice cream scoop, form walnut-sized balls and place 2 inches apart on a cookie sheet.
- Place a dark chocolate chip on top if desired.
- Bake for about 17 minutes.
- Let cool on a cooling rack and enjoy.

Hearty Crackers (Recipe)

The humble cracker has always been something I've overlooked when it comes to home baking. I guess I never really thought twice about them because I've never had a store-bought cracker that was delicious enough to be noteworthy. I recently visited a restaurant that served the most amazing crackers. They were hearty, sturdy but slightly crumbly with a very nutty taste. They were thick, dark and served with smoked trout, pickled eggs and braised beets. I wanted to eat that every day for the next two months. This recipe is my rendition of those crackers.

Here's what you'll need:
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 cup whole wheat flour
1/4 cup wheat bran
1/4 cup ground flax seeds
1/2 stick unsalted butter, cut into chunks
1/2 cup whey or water
1/4 cup olive oil
2 tbsp. toasted sesame seeds
2 tbsp. granulated sugar
1 heaping tbsp. dark brown sugar
1 tsp. salt

Here's what you'll do:
- In the bowl of a stand mixer, add all the dry ingredients: all-purpose flour, whole wheat flour, wheat bran, flax seeds, sesame seeds, granulated sugar, dark brown sugar and salt.
- Using the paddle attachment, mix until incorporated (about 30 seconds).
- With the mixer on medium speed, add the butter piece by piece until well incorporated and crumbly (about 2 minutes).
- With the mixer still on medium speed, slowly pour in the oil, then the whey or water until the dough comes together (similar to pie crust).
- Remove the dough from the bowl, hand shape it into two balls, cover each with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.
- Preheat oven to 400 degrees for at least 20 minutes.
- Take one ball, unwrap from plastic, and roll directly on a cookie sheet lined with a silicone mat until about 1/8 inch thick. (I roll it with the piece of plastic on top of the dough to keep it from sticking to the rolling pin).
- Remove plastic, then using a knife or pizza cutter, cut flattened dough into 2-inch squares or rectangles. No need to pull them apart; that can be done after baking.
- Sprinkle with flake salt if desired.
- Bake for 11-12 minutes, turn the cookie sheet around, then bake for another 11-12 minutes until the edges are very dark brown.
- Slide crackers onto a cooling rack, let cool for at least 20 minutes, then break the crackers apart.
- Repeat with the 2nd ball of dough.
- Store in a plastic baggie or air-tight container for up to 2 weeks.

INDO Restaurant & Lounge--Palo Alto (Indonesian Fusion)

With an Executive Chef from Thailand and a Chef de Cuisine from Indonesia, this restaurant's high-caliber food is heavy with delightful Asian flavors. The international wine list and craft cocktails is also available to help wash everything down. Located at 3295 El Camino Real, this establishment is off the main downtown strip of Palo Alto, so it can be easily missed. But, it's worth the trek for tasty food for happy hour, brunch, lunch or dinner.

Here were some of the things I've enjoyed.

http://www.indorestaurant.com/


Roti Prata. It's impossible for me to see this item on a menu and not order it. Delightfully thin with crispy parts and doughy parts, this sheet-like piece of perfectly pan-cooked dough was served with a nice, savory curry sauce.

INDO sampler. This was a platter of chicken satay, samosas, poh pia, and tuna tartare. Each item was well-prepared. The chicken was moist and savory, the samosas were filled with soft veggies, the poh pia had a delicious mix of shrimp, egg, and chili sauce and the tuna tartare was fresh and tasty with crisp cucumbers.

Kway Teow. A savory stir-fried dish of wide rice noodles, shrimp, fishcake, and bean sprouts with a soy glaze. Very nice.

Gulai Prawns. Three very large fresh-water prawns were cooked until just done and served with a red coconut curry and marble potatoes. The shrimp had that snap that indicates freshness and the curry was well balanced with all the spices.

Lamb Korma. An excellently prepared New Zealand lamb shank. This had a light coriander cumin curry sauce, carrots and potatoes. The lamb was falling off the bone tender and paired well with coconut rice.

Salmon Panggang. This piece of salmon was expertly cooked until just slightly opaque on the inside and nicely seared on the outside. Served with kaffir lime chili sauce and mango salsa, this dish was quite tasty.

Duck Kapitan. It must have been a great night to order this dish because it was absolutely perfect. Two methods of duck preparation were on this plate with a confit and also a seared breast. So succulent and moist without being too greasy and served with a delicious mild kaffir lime curry sauce and fresh greens.

Balado Short Rib. I would say this is a good place to go for superbly cooked meat. As soon as I touched a piece of this rib with my fork, the bone fell out. The spicy sambal glaze was not very spicy, but it was well seasoned and soaked into the potatoes on the bottom of the plate. Finger-linking good.

Mango Mousse. A very nice gelatinous mango dessert. If you are a mango lover, as I am, you will like this. The texture was more like gelatin than mousse; quite thick, but silky smooth and not too sweet.

Chocolate Truffle Cake. Warm chocolate cake that oozed with chocolaty goodness when cut with a fork and served with slowly melting vanilla gelato and a mildly sweet creamy fruity sauce. A great way to end a satisfying meal.

If in the Palo Alto area and in the mood for some Asian flavors and well-prepared meats, be sure to check out INDO. They have a nice semi-outdoor lounge area as well as buffet lunches and special event menus.