Norway is one of those places that's not really on many people's radar. It's not talked about too much among travelers either. I ended up going because I found an amazing flight deal. After my first visit, I would be more than happy to provide an introduction to this beautiful Scandinavian country to folks who may be curious.
Things I found interesting: almost everyone speaks perfect english, to-go food and eat-in tax rates are different (15% or 25% respectively), the sun was not as harsh, they have a 6-hour work day, most people who work in the service industry are from Sweden, and crime is minimal.
Also, another important thing to mention: the food is amazing!
The views were pretty spectacular as well. Take a look at this photo taken while hiking.
Breakfast
Norwegians and fish go hand in hand. Even for breakfast, there's plenty of pickled herring and rye toast with smoked salmon. Cheeses and beets are also a staple. I didn't have as much time to enjoy traditional Norwegian breakfasts each day, but a lot of the baked goods and coffee were very tasty.
Kaffebrenneriet
Various locations throughout Oslo and surrounding cities
For a chain coffee shop, they had good coffee and fresh baked goods for the weekday work crowd or for hungry travelers. Inexpensive (for Norway) and quick, each location had different items, and I was able to try many things.
Cappuccino. Most of the coffee beans are lightly roasted and therefore, give the coffee a sweeter, more citrusy taste. Double shots are common, but they always ask your preference. The milk was great in Norway, which gave coffee drinks a nice, creamy richness.
Smoked salmon on focaccia. Fluffy focaccia bread with sweet cream cheese, pickled capers, super fresh tasting smoked salmon and parsley.
Sjokoladebolle. The translation of this treat is "chocolate donut", although this was not fried, and the taste and texture was more like a rich chocolate ganache flavored with coffee and vanilla that was then rolled into coconut flakes and left to set. This went great with coffee.
Chocolate croissant and cinnamon bun. The croissant was flaky and buttery and this cinnamon bun was dense, chewy and not too sweet.
Kanelbolle. A classic Swedish cinnamon bun that was sticky and sweet and had a hint of cardamom. The big white granules were sugar.
Baker Hansen
Various locations throughout Oslo and other cities
Also a chain, this place probably had the best coffee and pastries I tried in Oslo. The first store location started 150 years ago, so they have some experience.
Cappuccino. A well made cup of coffee. This was very robust and tasted like it was more of a medium roast than the typical light roast.
Cinnamon bun. This bun had a rich pastry cream dolloped inside and drizzled with a sugary, but not too sweet royal icing. Probably the best cinnamon bun I tasted while in Oslo.
Plain croissant and Chocolate croissant. One of the better croissants I tried in Oslo. They both had a richer, more buttery taste.
Wienerstang. This was a delightful treat with a flaky pie crust-like base, a bear claw-like nutty filling, then topped with an apple compote down the middle, toasted almonds and royal icing. Very diverse ingredients that complemented each other well.
Godt Brod
Various locations throughout Bergen and other cities.
A chain bakery that first started in Bergen in 1995 with the philosophy that everything is baked on site with organic, responsibly-sourced ingredients. This may have been why this was my favorite bakery I tried throughout my entire trip. Everything was fresh, not just warm, but piping hot out of the oven and one could see the bakers behind the counter working their magic with dough.
Cappuccino. Obviously I like cappuccinos, and this one fared very well.
Plain croissant. Hot, buttery, flaky and freshly baked. I ended up getting another one.
Chocolate croissant. Only a freshly baked chocolate croissant can be better than a regular chocolate croissant. So tasty.
Blueberry tart. With minimal added sugar, this tart was bursting with blueberry flavor and the light and flaky pie crust set it off just right.
Snacks and light meals (various locations)
As a traveler with (unfortunately) not a lot of time and a lot to see, eating on the go, sometimes, is part of the experience. Luckily, Norway had a lot of tasty take-away foods.
Shrimp sandwich. Served on a very hearty rye bread filled with seeds and grains, sweet and fresh boiled shrimp, hard-boiled egg, mayonnaise, tomato and lettuce were served cold. This was like a refreshing shrimp louise salad, but with the hearty bread and without the heavy dressing.
Fresh boiled shrimp. This kilo of shrimp was purchased on the harbor right off a shrimping boat that just came in from shrimping early in the morning. The shrimpers boil the shrimp on their boats and sell them to patrons on the docks until sold out; and they sell out rather quickly. It was some of the freshest, sweetest, snappiest shrimp I've ever tasted. I had no problem eating shrimp for breakfast on this day.
Rolled, filled bread. I'm not sure what this was called, but it was warm, fresh bread with sauteed onions, mushrooms and spices rolled into it. Very savory and comforting on a cold day.
Hot dog. I should probably mention that I normally don't eat hot dogs in America due to the added nitrites, fillers, preservatives and mystery "meat" that seems to go into most meat in tube form. This particular hot dog was purchased at a gas station in Voss while my boyfriend and I were waiting for a bus to go to Odda. It was super snappy, juicy, wrapped in crispy bacon, smothered in tangy ketchup and sweet mustard, and all nestled in a toasty bun. I didn't have any gastrointestinal distress later either, which indicates that this was real meat. Probably the best hot dog I've ever eaten and maybe will ever eat.
Cured Lamb. It took me a while to figure out what kind of meat this was since there does not seem to be a word that is an English equivalent to "fenalar". I'm guessing it's part of the leg, and I will say that it was very delicious. Really meaty tasting, salty and had a great chew.
Ham sandwich. I have to make a mention about the bread in Norway. Much of the bread was gluten free and they were really well made. Most of the breads I enjoyed the most had a lot of nuts and seeds baked within and sprinkled on top. The bread on this sandwich was no exception. It was really soft and chewy with a nice crunch from the seeds and grains. The sandwich was not over-stuffed with meats and cheeses; it was well balanced with just enough ham, cheese, mayo and lettuce.
Pear Cider. The Odda region of Norway is known for their pears, apples and ciders. This pear cider was mildly sweet, packed huge pear flavor and refreshingly sparkly.
Apple. It seems a little silly to mention this, but of course I had to taste one the region's apples. It had a great balance of mild tartness, sweetness and crunchiness that makes a great apple. It was also more apple-y, if that makes sense. Some of the apples I eat at home taste a bit hollow, like real apple flavor is missing. This included everything. It's probably why the Odda region is famous for this fruit.
Cured meat stick. Made with reindeer meat and pork, this was a very satisfyingly good snack. The flavors danced on my palate and lasted for minutes with each bite. I wished I could have shipped home a thousand of these.
3-Kroneren
Kong Oscars Gate 1b, Bergen
This was a small hut located in the busy downtown area of Bergen. The line of locals and tourists made me give it a try. It was also very affordable compared to other restaurants in the area.
Wild Game Sausage. This was served with a "super strong mustard" that gave it a great kick. The sausage itself was very juicy and full flavored with an excellent casing that gave it a great snap. One might describe the flavor as "gamey," which most find off-putting, but I liked it. It tasted like, well, meat. The way meat is supposed to taste; full bodied, earthy and just really savory and satisfying.
Reindeer sausage. I had this with the recommended Lingonberry sauce, which was basically a sweet jam. It cut through the richness of the meat, complementing it surprisingly well, making this a very tasty light lunch.
Vespa & Humla
Kobenhavngt 2c, 0553, Oslo
While strolling around a residential neighborhood near our hotel, we came across this little restaurant with no english on the sign or menu. I understood "porchetta" though, and that drew me in. This ended up being a great experience with the friendly and helpful english-speaking staff and the quaint, relaxing atmosphere.
Lokka IPA. I found this beer to be very refreshing. Beers in Europe are typically lower in alcohol content than ones made in the U.S. Anything over 5% comes with a verbal warning and concerned look from the bartender, which I find amusing. This beer was lightly hoppy with some fruity overtones and a clean finish.
Porconero Fiano. An Italian wine, this was my most favorite I had during this whole trip and probably since my previous favorite from my trip to Vienna. It had a lovely and delicate floral nose, light on the palate with a lingering sweet finish.
Sunchokes. This side dish came with my meal. It was thinly shaved, stewed in butter and white wine and topped with a parmesan-like cheese. Similar to artichoke and potato, this was an interesting first-time tasting. I liked it.
Half Chicken. Probably the most boring-sounding item on the menu, but the taste was spectacular. The demi-glace sauce tantalized every millimeter of my tongue with umami savoryness. The chicken was skillfully prepared; juicy on the inside with a nice crisp skin on the outside. Served with potatoes and brussels sprouts, I was fighting my boyfriend for more tastes.
Porchetta. Since this was the reason we stopped in, I ordered this very non-Norwegian dish. They must have some Italians in the back though because this was the best pork I've ever eaten. Succulent, moist and full of porky goodness in the middle with a shatteringly crunchy skin on the outside. I'm curious to know how they cut it into slices without breaking the skin into a million pieces. The chewy gnocchi was also quite tasty and the sauce was completely sopped up with an extra order of bread.
Matstreif Food Festival.
Downtown Oslo, at the Harbor
We just happened to be in Oslo during this huge, once-a-year food festival where seemingly hundreds of vendors came to hawk their wares over two days. Plenty of free samples were given out as well and at times, I felt like I was in the middle of a feeding frenzy of hungry wolves. Everything we sampled, and everything we purchased, was fantastic.
Salmon sampler. Going clockwise from upper left, cooked salmon with a cream sauce, salmon tartar, salmon sashimi with mango, salmon wrap with chives and cream cheese, smoked salmon. Each piece was about one bite and each bite was a mouthful of glorious salmon love. Since the water is very cold around Norway, the seafood tastes exponentially sweet and clean.
Ox sausage. It was interesting that the sausages were served in tortillas rather than buns, but it was good all the same. The meat was well seasoned and cooked just right with a spicy mustard that gave it a nice spiciness.
Deer burger. I love how Norwegians serve savory meats with sweet jams. It actually works really well. This deer burger was served with sour cream mixed with lingonberry jam and grilled onions. So good.
Deer sausage. Another tasty sausage with a snappy casing and meaty goodness. I find it a shame that I can't find ready-to-buy game meats in the states that haven't been processed to the point where all the flavor is removed. They are so tasty otherwise.
"A plate of yummy." When I asked the vendor what they were selling, he responded with "A plate of yummy." Who wouldn't want that? It was a 3-way chicken platter of chicken sausage, pulled chicken and chicken wings. Everything was fantastically prepared and looked so good on the plate, several passers by asked us where we got it from. It was all yummy indeed.
Delicatessen Gunerlokka Tapas Bar
Sondre Gate 8, Oslo
In the trendy Grunerlokka neighborhood, we found this fantastic gem of a Spanish tapas restaurant. Once I got past hearing Norwegian being spoken around us, it absolutely felt like I was back in Spain with the smells, the flavors and all the fabulous sangria.
Hylleblomst sangria. A type of Norwegian flower, possibly similar to Elder Flower, this was a very fragrant drink. It had an excellent balance of sweetness and boozyness and was very refreshing.
Apple sangria. Another delicious variety of sangria was this delightfully fruity version.
Alhambra 1925 Reserva. A Spanish beer brewed for over 35 days. This is considered the brewery's "ultra premium" lager. With a caramel nose, full flavor in the middle and a lingering finish, I would have to agree.
The full selection. A nice picture of our table after all the tapas arrived.
Albondigas. Little meatballs that were made with carrots, rice, and simmered in a savory, chunky tomato sauce. These were incredibly tender to the point of almost requiring a spoon to pick them up as they may fall off the fork when stabbed. So good.
Cured Chorizo. A cured Spanish sausage. The dry-aging process and fat marbleization intensified all that meaty goodness. Sliced paper thin and served with nothing, as these didn't require any sauce or anything else to be delicious.
Croquetas. Filled with mushroom and creamed potatoes, these were so delicate, I'm in awe that the cooks were able to fry them and plate them without them falling apart.
Octopus. One of my favorite things to eat, this perfectly cooked, chewy but not rubbery, octopus was grilled, then placed atop of lightly dressed mixed greens with shaved fennel, apples, radish with a squeeze of squid ink sauce over it all.
Iberico Pork. An uncured version of pork was seared and then served towered on top of toasted bread with caramelized onion, blue cheese sauce, jalapeno and parsley.
Patatas Bravas. Simple fried potatoes served with sour cream and a rich, tomato sauce. Sometimes it's the simple things in life that can give me great pleasure.
Bergslien Restaurant
Gamle Oddaveg 3, 5770, Tyssdal
Many meals were eaten here as this was the restaurant in our hotel when we traveled about 6 hours north from Oslo. This was also the only restaurant within 10 miles aside from other hotel restaurants. The Odda area is known for backpacking and trekking, so restaurants were at a minimum. Thank goodness it served excellent food.
Yogurt and muesli. Similar to granola, except it's raw, this muesli makes a great topping for Norwegian yogurt, which is rich and creamy.
Bacon and eggs. For an additional hearty option for breakfast, this was also served warm and tasty every morning in our hotel buffet.
Pickled Herring. This was probably the best part of any Scandinavian breakfast. Fish for breakfast just makes me smile. These were plain and tomato pickled herring served with beets and cucumber pickles.
Ringnes Beer. A standard beer in Norway, this had very mild hops, a crisp taste and a clean finish.
Granatello Bianco. An Italian blended wine, this was unobtrusive, while still being refreshing, and paired well with any food.
Pork Neck. A tender and juicy, meaty portion of a slow-roasted piece of pig. Served with gravy and baked potatoes, this was a delicious and hearty meal.
Salmon Filet. Another tasty example of Norwegian salmon, this perfectly cooked piece of fish was served with potatoes, carrots and a butter sauce.
Vegetable soup. This rather bland looking bowl of soup was actually packed full of flavor and complexity that I was not expecting. I'm not sure how many different vegetables were in it, but it was really warm and gave me great satisfaction after a long hike in cold weather.
Spaghetti Bolognese. Another simple dish that was incredibly tasty. The meat sauce was rich and savory and the noodles were cooked al dente.
Smeltehuset
Roldalsvegen 4, 5750, Odda
The only restaurant open in the very small, but scenic, town of Odda, this little diner-like, older-adult hangout stood next to a beautiful lake that reflected a mountain peppered with small blue, red, yellow and white lakeside homes. Looking at the decor made me think of a teenager with attention deficit disorder. Hanging on every wall were nicely polished guitars of all kinds, colorful prints, black-and-white photos, ads for products, antique cooking paraphernalia and more. I was skeptical, but the view outside was really nice.
Coppola Chardonnay. I don't think diners in America usually serve alcohol, so this was a good sign. A good pour for one serving, this wine had nice aromas of citrus fruits, was mildly sweet initially with a crisp, subtly tart finish.
Nogne O American Pale Ale. A lovely orange-colored beer. The initial aromas were malty caramels and citrus. The lively carbonation tickled your tongue, it was medium bodied and juicy in the middle, with a mildly bitter finish.
Pizza buffet. Who'd of thought the pizza in Norway would be this good. The pizza buffet had two options that were refilled and immediately devoured by patrons so each slice was really fresh and hot. The dough was medium in thickness, had a nice chew and topped with stretchy cheese and fresh and tasty ingredients.
Spare Ribs. I didn't think I would find good barbecue in Norway either. These spare ribs were slow cooked, smokey, tender and ridiculously enjoyable. The sauce was sweet and savory with molasses, sugar and tomato and was finger lickin' good.
Spisekroken
Klostergate 8, 5005, Bergen
Sandwiched between two other establishments was this closet-sized restaurant in Norway's second-largest city of Bergen. I would describe the feel of this place as relaxed "fine dining". The service was professional but friendly enough to not be pretentious or judgmental. The food was presented beautifully and the taste made me feel like royalty.
Aegir IPA. Initially floral on the nose with medium-bodied bittersweet hops on the palate and a long, refreshingly bitter finish.
Cuvee Marine, Dom. de Menard, Cotes de Gascogne. A well rounded, French blended wine, this easy-to-drink white had citrus notes and was very refreshing.
Bread and butter. Delicious herbed, whipped butter was served with a chewy, nicely leavened, crusty bread. I made sure to save some of this for sopping up sauces later.
Aquavit Plate. Three small starters were accompanied by three appropriate shots of Aquavit (a spirit similar to vodka, but a bit more sophisticated). From top to bottom:
Smoked duck with carrot, buckthorn puree, pear and caramelized nuts. The duck was super tender and paired well with the aged Aquavit.
Mushroom soup with fried thin slices of potato, crispy bacon-like ham, and herbed oil. My taste buds were screaming with enjoyment. It was so incredibly savory and had the perfect consistency. I just wanted to lick the bowl. The younger Aquavit it was paired with cleansed the palate nicely.
Grilled scallops with chicken broth, Holli barley, kale chips and a roasted cherry tomato. The scallops were moist, the broth gave it a really nice umami flavor and the accouterments excited all the textural requirements of my mouth. The unaged Aquavit finished it up well.
Rib of Lamb. Served with farro, pickled pumpkin, pickled onion, green beans and a thyme and sherry sauce. How many different ways can I say "tender" and "moist"? This was it. Expertly prepared, I am so thankful for cooks who know how to handle meat. The pickled pumpkin was interesting also and gave the richness of the meat a nice, tart contrast. A very well thought out dish.
Gourmet Veal. Another exceptionally prepared piece of protein, this was served with parsley puree, potatoes, chanterelles and a fantastic calf tongue sauce. This is where the saved bread comes in to sop up the sauce.
Bryggen Tracteursted
Bryggestredet 2, 5003, Bergen
For our last night in Norway, we ended up at this small-plates restaurant in an historic building with slanted floors and creaky wood beams. It was dimly lit, one might call it "romantic," and the soft rain outside enhanced the wood smells and gave the lighting from the windows a soft look.
Aegir India Pale Ale. A bit hoppier than its American Pale Ale cousin, this beer had a nice medium-heavy bodied mouthfeel, citrus notes and a long-lasting bitter finish.
Il Padrino Bianco, Mondo del Vino. A light Italian white that was slightly fruity and citrusy. It was crisp and had a subtly sweet finish.
Bread and butter. A variety of breads from rye bread to cracker bread to a dense french bread. The butter in Norway is exceptional, so even though the photo of this butter looks rather ordinary, it was divine.
Fish Stew & Meatballs. The fish stew was a thick mash of cod, leek, potatoes, butter and cream. A really tasty dish. The meatballs were made with lamb and wild garlic. These were very tender and really good.
Smoked Leg of Lamb. This tender lamb was cured and smoked and resembled ham in look and taste.
Cured Sausage. Similar to salami, this cured sausage was a tasty meat dish that had a nice bite to it and had the perfect amount of seasoning.
Smoked Cod. The tail end of cod was smoked to the point of flakiness and giving it a light smoke flavor. This was served with a creamy, savory white sauce and butter poached carrots.
Veiled Peasant Girls and Cream Pudding. The Veiled Peasant Girls was a deconstructed apple pie. Vanilla ice cream was on the bottom, followed by warm apple, topped with whipped cream and then the "crust" sprinkled on top. It was some of the best apple pie I've ever had.
The Cream Pudding was also amazingly delicious. Similar to pot de creme, I had to shove the spoon to the bottom to get all the layers of thick, lightly sweet pudding, cream, then strawberry mash and crumbled caramel lace cookie. It was a great way to end our last meal in Norway.
For a country full of blonds and vikings, Norway was a great experience full of spectacular views, friendly people, rich history and incredibly memorable food. I would definitely like to come back and I would encourage anyone to come visit.
