Friday, May 19, 2017

Italy (various eateries)

An interesting European destination for me this year was Italy. This is a country where the local cuisine is very regionally specific. Lucky for me, artichokes were in season, so I enjoyed many dishes with artichoke. The sights, sounds and smells of Italy ran across a very long range and I'm glad I got to experience it. One sure thing I learned, Italians know how to eat. The portions for each five-course meal were enormous and only being able to order wine by the bottle, not by the glass, really tells you something.

Here is a serene picture of Rome to open your appetite.





Gelato
I think the most sought after treat the whole time I was in Italy was gelato. The number of little gelato shops were just as plentiful to fulfill all of my gelato needs. The diversity of recipes and flavors were also interesting to experience. Here were my favorites.



Bar Gelateria Il Camerlengo
Piazza del Campo, No. 6, Siena
This was a little shop in the center plaza of Siena. They had the usual flavors plus some unusual flavors. The aspect I liked the most about their recipe is the smoothness and creaminess of the gelato without being too sweet. The mascarpone and chocolate flavor exemplified these characteristics fantastically.




Gelateria Bartocci Giuseppe
Via Alessandria 145, Rome
A slightly larger shop with other items like pre-made tiramisu, zuccotto and more. The gelato flavors here were more innovative and interesting. Below is my sesame and honey flavored gelato. This was really delicious with lots of toasted sesame seeds that added texture and the floral taste of honey was very distinct.







Snacks
Italians seem to snack just as much as the rest of the world. Little food stalls and shops, dedicated to the art of snacking, peppered every street in every city. Every single one of these establishments also offered wine and maybe a few beers. Here were some of my favorites.



Cafe Berta Pasticceria Artigianale
Piazza Chigi Saracini, Siena
This bakery/snack bar had seating inside and outside as well as many colorful sweet and savory offerings inside their glass case. I wish I had purchased more items. After tasting this crunchy connoli with pastry cream and pistachio, I immediately wanted more.




Giovannini Pasticceria Bar Gelateria
Corso Matteotti, 4 Montecatini Terme
A place that sells cookies by the kilo? Sounds good to me. I'm not 100% sure what these particular cookies were called, but starting from the upper right and moving clockwise, we have an almond biscotti, a flaky shortbread cookie and a chocolate butter sandwich cookie. All were about the size of a silver dollar or smaller, each had its own distinctive flavor and texture and all were really well made.




Cioccolato & Company
Corso Roma N. 10, Montecatini Terme
A specialty chocolate shop with lots of offerings from truffles to bars to gift packs to cakes. I opted for a taste of several items. The long pieces were chocolate-covered orange peel, the square was a caramel cream truffle and the short pieces were some sort of ground and compressed nut covered in chocolate. All were sweet, decadent and delicious.




Supplizio
Via dei Banchi Vecchi, 143, 00186 Rome
The best rice balls I've ever tasted came from this tiny little establishment in a small alleyway. I'm very glad we decided to take a short cut and just happened to pass by this gem. The fresh ingredients, fried-to-order service model and comfy couch turned a quick snack into a 90-minute rest stop.


Classico. This ball of rice had fresh oregano, parsley, a cream sauce and seasoned bread crumbs mixed in before getting fried into golden goodness. The wonderful aroma of the herbs came through before even taking a bite.




Carbonara. The egg, cheese and bacon made this a powerhouse of flavor and richness. My favorite. I ordered this one two more times.




Polpette di Melanzane. Finely shredded eggplant, stale bread, eggs and pecorino romano made this soft and flavorful on the inside, while the breadcrumbs and deep fry kept it crunchy on the outside. Served with a thyme ricotta and a tomato sauce, this was very enjoyable.





Istanbul Kebab
Viale Giustiniano Imperatore, 29, 00145 Rome
Getting totally off the beaten path, by taking the subway to an unknown stop, led me to this fantastic little shop in an area that looked a little rough, but was probably more of a residential neighborhood for slightly lower income folks. I felt right at home.


Piadina Kebab (outside). A trip to the shop's bathroom gave me a view into their kitchen where I witnessed cooks making this flatbread by hand. It was sturdy enough to hold everything together while still providing a toasty-ness and warmth that made this wrap very comforting.




Piadina Kebab (inside). Thin slices of meat (tasted like lamb) were carved off the vertical spit and wrapped with fresh vegetables of your choosing. Here I chose lettuce, tomato, cabbage and a spicy yogurt sauce. This was savory and very flavorful.




Borek. Leftover flatbread was filled with Feta cheese, rolled up and fried until crunchy and golden with a warm, oozy center. These were fun to eat as well as delicious.




Falafel ball. Given to us as a free taste, these golden balls did not include parsley, so these had a very nice, distinctive taste of the chickpea. A freshly fried falafel ball is always a welcomed treat.





Castello di Meleto
53013 Gaiole in Chianti, Tuscany
Not sure if a wine tasting in a castle can be considered a snack, but I'm going to include it anyway. I've never experienced a wine tasting quite like this, where it lasted for about an hour, everyone in the group (2 travelers and 4 day-tripping locals) sat together family style, and we were served fresh bread, olive oil, salami, lardo and prosciutto along with our tastes of delicious wine. Italians know how to enjoy life.


Cured meat. The salami, prosciutto and lardo were all regional meats and all were fantastic, especially the buttery prosciutto (bottom right). I explained to the locals that a wine tasting in Napa Valley did not include any food like this, and usually occurred within 15-20 minutes while standing. They chuckled at the idea.





Walnut Liquor 2008. On the left is their award-winning Walnut Liquor (2006 vintage). This was sweet, but not cloyingly so. It had a complex flavor that did not taste like walnuts, but still had a nutty aroma. It was light in viscosity and ended the wine tasting very nicely. The liquor was not included in the price of the tasting, but after an hour of casual imbibing, we were all friends.

Brandy di Sangiovese. This brandy was also an after-tasting extra taste, and it was smooth, slightly sweet with notes of fruit, had a light smoke nose from aging for 10 years in different woods and finished clean.




Chianti Classico Riserva 2012. Another award winner, this medium-bodied wine was light on the tannins, fruity without any one quality being overpowering and highly drinkable.

Miele di Acacia. A very regional honey. This was light and paired well with salty cured meats.

Miele di Castagno. Another regional honey. This was collected from bees who feasted on chestnut flowers. It had a rich, deep flavor. This paired very well with creamy cheeses and seasonal fruit.

Olive Oil. This year's first press new oil. This was a young oil, very peppery, grassy and even had a bit of a green hue. I was told if I waited a few months, it will mellow out a bit. This was best served on its own atop fresh, toasted bread.






Nameless snack shop
131 Via degli Alfani, Florence
This little shop only had a sign that said "Panini Pizze & Vini". Translation, "sandwiches, pizza and wine". Seemingly touristy, since this was directly across the street from the Galleria del Accademia (where Michelangelo's, David, resides), this establishment actually served up some incredibly tasty food very quickly.


Sandwich. After seeing a local order this, I asked for the same thing. A fluffy, cornmeal encrusted, toasted bun encased roasted artichoke hearts, thinly sliced prosciutto and thick pieces of a hard, aged cheese. This was warm, salty, crunchy, with great texture from the artichokes. A really delicious sandwich.




Pizza. A medium-thick crust was crisp on the bottom and made for an excellent vessel for ham, artichoke hearts, pine nuts, a delicious marinara sauce and oozy mozzarella cheese. Very tasty.





Canolli. Whichever bakery made these did an excellent job. These were fresh, with a crunchy shell and lightly sweetened, creamy ricotta and mascarpone cheese filling. The gentle sprinkling of super fine sugar gave it a nice texture as well.





The Italian Dining Experience
To say the Italians take their time to eat, is a gross understatement. I tried to eat like the Italians, but I think our fast-paced, American lifestyle really hinders our ability to relax, go slow and really savor things. A typical meal may last three or more hours and goes through at least four courses. I'm still baffled as to the Italians' ability to eat so much and not many of them were overweight. Nevertheless, I did my best to eat and go slow and enjoy as much as possible. I think I did alright.


Osteria Il Bivio
Via Delle Vigne, 8, 51016 Vico PT
This two-story restaurant looked like a house and was situated on the top of a long hill. The cozy setting and friendly staff made me feel very welcomed and cared for. The Chef himself came by and served our food as well as answered questions, gave us samples and helped translate the all-Italian menu. This was a great meal.


Prosecco. A house sparkling wine was given to us with the little amuse bouche below. This was mildly tangy, had a floral effervescence that tickled my palate and finished clean.





Amuse Bouche. Tuna prepared similarly to stove-top pulled pork was served with white beans, rosemary and olive oil. I was fooled at first, thinking it was pork, until the Chef let us know it was tuna. It was salty and flaky and paired nicely with the neutral beans which toned down the salt from the fish. A brilliant dish.





Menabrea Biondi. An Italian blond beer that was medium bodied, balanced with sweet and bitter. Lighter than the beers we're used to drinking in the U. S., but still flavorful with some citrus, light malts and light hops.





Vermentino Poggio al Sasso. This was a rounded wine, light on the acidity, mildly sweet in the middle and balanced. Easy to drink.





Cold cuts and Cheese Platter. A fantastic sampling of the regions cured meats and cheeses. I'm not sure of the names of each one, but there were two kinds of salami, two kinds of headcheese and a prosciutto. In the middle were little bowls of sun-dried tomatoes, orange marmalade and a quince jam. The cheeses ranged from aged to very sharp. Every piece was top notch and with all the condiments, the number of flavor combinations were unending.





Cinghiale in umido con le olive. This was a wild boar stew cooked with olives. The hand-made and hand-cut pasta soaked up the sauce very nicely, the meat fell apart and tasted very savory from the olives and long cooking time.





Ristorante Nobil
Via Pistoiese, 59, 51016 Montecatini Terme
A restaurant that specializes in seafood was on my mind on this night. I saw this place while we were driving back from sight seeing all day, looked it up online and thought it might be a good spot to eat. I'm glad I listened to my gut, because my gut became very happy with the meal. The ambiance was a bit more upscale and romantic, and the service was very nice with friendly waitstaff who were happy to translate the entire menu for us.


Torretta di Polpo. A tower of octopus was placed in front of me and I was blown away with how soft, tender and succulent it was. The stewed vegetables on the bottom were very tasty, as well as the sauteed green on top and the parmesan crisp gave the whole thing great texture.





Plateau della Salumeria. This was a plate of three aged cheeses and three cured meats, including prosciutto, salami and coppa. Served with a side of pickled carrots and fennel, this was a nice way to start the meal.





Pacchero al Sugo d'Astice. This was a wonderful lobster pasta. The pasta was very al dente and the flavors were very intense with a rich lobster sauce and chunks of fresh lobster.





Ravioli Ripieni ai Crostacei su Crema di Gamberi. Raviolis filled with ricotta cheese were nicely plated and dotted with basil oil. These were cheesy on the inside and had a delicious cream sauce that was seasoned with shrimp-infused cream.





Dessert Gratis. We were too full to order dessert, but the Chef presented us with this delightful end to our meal. A sweetened and frothed espresso was topped with chocolate shavings and served with espresso beans and candied lemon zest. Three perfect sips.






La Cantina del Toscano DOC
Viale Leonardo Da Vinci, 48, 51016 Montecatini Terme PT
This restaurant had a very traditionally Italian menu and a fairly large wine selection with wine bottles on shelves throughout the restaurant. The back room had a lit fireplace and the atmosphere in that area felt like someone's home.


Table Bread. This was simple pizza dough drizzled with olive oil, hot and fresh out of their wood-fired oven. It was a very nice start to the meal and also worked well for sopping up leftover sauces from our entrees.





Fried Polenta with Ham and Cheese. This appetizer was simple but well balanced. The fried polenta cakes were creamy on the inside and crusty on the outside. It was under seasoned so as to balance out the saltiness of the ham and the aged sheep cheese gave the whole bite some good texture and creaminess.





Terrine of Cod. This was baccala that was soaked in water to pull out excess salt, then cooked in cream, onions and oregano until tender and spreadable. Served with toasted bread, this was a very nice dish with rounded flavors and textures.




Lamb Ribs. On the bone and cooked until medium rare, these ribs were juicy, meaty, succulent and tender. The rustic, roasted potatoes were a nice side and the myrtle sauce gave it an extra depth.





Gnocchi with Shrimp. Adorably tiny gnocchi were pillowy soft, tossed in a shrimp broth reduction and served with a broccoli and rosemary cream sauce and one whole fresh shrimp. Everything was perfectly seasoned, savory and delicious.






Ai Balestrari
Porta Pia, Via Allessandria, 150, Rome
http://www.aibalestrari.com/?lang=it
If I were to live in Italy, I would probably spend a lot of time in the city of Rome. It was very bustling and crowded, but the charm of the very historic areas, things to do and fantastic food would keep me entertained for a lengthy amount of time. This restaurant was part of that charm. Fiercely proud of their heritage, this restaurant has been cooking and serving, the Roman way, since 1862 using local, organic ingredients.



Antipasto for Two. This was the fried section of the Antipasto plate with fried zucchini blossoms (on the left and right) and fried rice balls (top and bottom). The zucchini blossoms were one of my favorite things, with a bit of ricotta and anchovy inside to give it some umami, and the batter puffed up nice and fluffy.




Antipasto for Two con't. The bread and toppings section of the antipasto plate included toasted bread with fresh roma tomatoes, artichoke puree, and olive tapenade. The tomatoes were fresh, juicy and sweet, the artichoke puree was musky and hearty as artichoke should be and the tapenade was briney and satisfied that salt craving. Each piece was also drizzled with fantastically light and buttery olive oil.





Spuntature e Salsicce. Romans like their pasta very al dente. This thick pasta was cooked as such and dragged through a ragu of tomato sauce, spare ribs and pork sausage. This was hearty and each piece of meat was a large chunk that had its own distinctive taste and texture and added an element of surprise to the dish.





Guance di Vitellone al Sugo. I'm still dreaming of these braised beef cheeks and tomato sauce. This was probably one of the best pieces of meat I've ever eaten in my life. The flavor of the meat and the texture completely blew me away. All the connective tissue was braised into oblivion, but left a segue from each muscle fiber to the next, which gave it an incredible mouth feel.





Chicory Side Dish. This was a salad of bitter chicory shaved into strips and tossed in a tangy vinegar and olive oil dressing. These cleansed the palate nicely between bites of beef cheek and I loved the bitterness, crunch and tang it provided. I could have eaten this every day.





Elisir Gambrinus. A digestif, this was a sweet liquor that was made from red wine, grappa and berries. Our friendly server highly recommended it and he did not disappoint. It was boozy, sweet but not cloyingly so, fruity and juicy.






Al Forno della Soffitta
Via Piave, 62/64, 00187 Rome
http://www.alfornodellasoffitta.it/en/
This was a bustling pizza place serving Neapolitan-style pizza cooked very quickly in a screaming hot wood-fired oven. It seemed full of tourists, which was a bit off-putting for me, but the locals appeared for take out here and there, which gave it more credibility. The service was brisk and the staff was patient, even with indecisive visitors. Given the amount of people coming through to dine in and take out, I was very impressed with how much food this place turned out with the quality in tact.



Calzoni. Little calzones that were filled with ricotta cheese and salami, fried until golden brown and served piping hot. These were crisp on the outside, cheesy, meaty and salty on the inside. It was a very good appetizer.





Oven-Roasted Lamb and Potatoes. This was a very rustic and hearty dish. The lamb was well seasoned and well prepared. It was simply cooked to exemplify the quality of the meat, and served with delicious, buttery potatoes.





Carbonara 2.0. The next generation of Carbonara. A delicious, crusty, wholesome pizza dough topped with mozzarella, Pecorino Romano, some of the most crave-able bacon I've ever tasted, a poached egg and fresh black pepper. This was an excellent version of Carbonara in pizza form.






Nove
Via Mantova, 9, Rome
This was a quaint looking restaurant that caught my eye while walking around one evening. After a look at the menu, I noticed it had few items and did not list anything in English. I figured this would be a great, local spot where I'd be able to try authentic, local cuisine. I was not disappointed. Everything was fresh and the server was very helpful with translating the menu.


Chardonnay Buccia Nera (Toscana). A Tuscany wine that was citrus-y with light floral notes. This was a very clean tasting wine with a mild bitter finish.





Birra Moretti. A typical beer brand in Italy. This was light, medium bodied with floral notes and a short but clean finish.




Fiori di zucca Ripieni di Ricotta Basilico. These zucchini blossoms were filled with ricotta and anchovy, lightly battered and fried until just a light golden color. Served with a savory sauce made of cream, nut flour and anchovy, these were crunchy on the outside and hot, creamy, savory and tasty on the inside.





Carciofo alla Romana. Long-braised artichoke was served with some of the broth it was cooked in. This was tender and very meaty-tasting. The broth was rich with flavor and the olive oil gave it a great succulence. The broth was so good, I had to soak it up with bread.




Rigatoni con Sugo di Coda alla Vaccinara. This savory tomato sauce was cooked with oxtail and tossed with freshly made pasta and sprinkled with Pecorino Romano. A very delicious pasta dish.




Tagliata di Manzo all'aceto Balsamico. Perfectly grilled steak was simply seasoned with salt and pepper and served with a fresh and wonderfully bitter arugula, sweet tomatoes and a side of lemon.





Side of Potatoes. Delicious and buttery (without any butter used) potatoes that were roasted with fragrant rosemary. These were very addictive.





Tiramisu. An individual portion that I almost skipped due to over eating. I'm glad the server talked me into ordering it as it was well worth the extra calories. Creamy, with a hint of espresso and cocoa. The mascarpone was whipped until light and fluffy with spongy lady fingers that soaked up the surrounding flavors. This was a great tiramisu.






Plancha
Via Bergamo, 28, 00198 Rome
An interesting, eclectic restaurant with a very enthusiastic chef/owner who explained the menu and made great recommendations. This was the only place in Rome (or all of Italy for that matter) I found that actually served cocktails. They also had an open kitchen and the menu was heavily influenced by asian flavors. I was very impressed with the food, since takes on asian flavors at other restaurants I tried while in Italy didn't always work for me. The space was very small but modern looking with dark woods and nice blue and green hues.


Mojito Fidel. A delicious drink with rum, mint, lime juice, cane sugar and soda. Refreshing and a great alternative from wine and beer.






Boulevardier. A well-balanced cocktail with Rosso vermouth, Campari, Bourbon and a Maraschino cherry. Balanced and tasty.






Tartare di Manzo. Incredibly fresh and tasty beef was chopped and mixed with sun-dried tomatoes, capers, burrata cream and sprinkled with bits of pistachio and sea salt. The meat was well seasoned and tasted clean, the way beef should taste.






Baccala. Leek and ginger potato puree, soy beans and tomato powder were nicely plated. The fish was flaky and all the components came together well in this light dish.





Pork Ribs. Tossed in an oyster sauce, these ribs were meaty, succulent, sweet, savory, hearty and had a great char from the grill.





Baked Potato with Bacon and Blue Cheese. This side dish could have been a meal on its own. Every potato I ate in Italy seemed to taste so much more potato-y. This was buttery and fulfilling, the bacon was salty and savory and the blue cheese tied every taste and texture together with sweet, savory, salty, creamy and crunchy.





Noodles with Shrimp, Japanese style. Tossed with bean sprouts, carrots, and zucchini, these wheat noodles were cooked on the flattop grill, which gave it a nice smoky/grilled aroma. The teriyaki sauce they used was well-balanced and full of flavor.





Panna Cotta. It's hard for me to resist a well-made panna cotta. This one was one of the best I've tasted. It was caramel flavored and topped with a decadent and rich chocolate sauce. Creamy, not too sweet and an excellent way to end the meal.






Trattoria Medina
Via Medina, 32, 80133 Naples
This looked like a little restaurant from the outside that ended up being a really enormous restaurant once inside. Spanning two stories, they had a wood-burning pizza oven both upstairs and downstairs, plus two very large banquet rooms. This was located centrally near a castle. I would imagine it gets pretty packed during the peak summertime tourist season. The food was very fresh and the service was also very friendly.


Gamberi e Calamari Dorati. Lightly battered and flash fried shrimp and calamari were simply served with a lemon wedge. It did not need any other seasoning though, as the seafood was very fresh and delicious.





Cafona. A well-executed Neapolitan-style pizza in Naples. This had a lightly charred crust that was thin and had a nice toasty taste. Topped with fresh tomatoes, provolone, ricotta, salami and fresh basil, this was a very good pizza.





Ristorante Anastasia
Via Ripuaria, 69 80019, Qualiano
http://www.ristoranteanastasia.it/
I would have never thought that 15 minutes from Naples would be a somewhat large-ish population of people from Ukraine, along with a fantastic restaurant serving great Ukrainian food. Entering the space made me immediately feel under dressed, as the tables and walls were decorated as if for a wedding reception and the patrons that were already dining were dressed in their finest evening wear and suits. The party atmosphere was interesting, fully equipped with a dance floor, live band, disco ball and smoke machine. Equally interesting was when the Ukrainian patrons got up to dance during their favorite Ukrainian party songs. The staff were dressed in crisp white and burgundy shirts, vests and slacks and they only spoke either Italian or Ukrainian. I put my pointing skills and hand gestures to good use. Even though I felt as if I stepped into a totally foreign country while in a foreign country, this was a really fun experience.



Falanghina white wine. Originating in the Campania region of Italy, this wine was smooth and clean, with notes of apple and pear. A very nice wine.





Charcuterie Plate. A mix of three types of salami, ham, and mortadella, this was a bit different than the typical cured meats we enjoyed while in Italy. A bit more mild as not as many spices were involved, but very enjoyable.





Golubtsi Ukrainski. A dish of boiled cabbage leaves stuffed with ground meat and a creamy mushroom sauce. These were savory and full of flavor. A very good traditional Ukrainian dish.






Cusheniy Pazik z Kvasolkou. This was very tender and tasty braised cow tongue topped with a delicious sauce made of onions and sour cream. On the side were snappy green beans.





Crepe. A very thin sheet of sweet and chewy dough was covered with a raspberry sauce and fresh berries. On the side was a scoop of vanilla ice cream. A good, light dessert.




Limoncello. A lovely, sweet and lemony cordial to end a nice meal that was also a fun experience.







Sushi.Ba
Corso G. Matteotii, 125 Montecatini Terme-PT
www.sushiba.it
Another interesting take on ethnic cuisine; this time it was Japanese. I would put this more in the "fusion" category, however. These types of eating experiences make me wonder where the cooks/chefs get the ideas to create the food that they serve. This place was all you can eat, not in a buffet style, but one could order at will using table service. All in all, an interesting experience.


Seaweed Salad. One recognizable item that tasted exactly the same as I've had at most sushi restaurants in America. Probably because this type of seaweed salad is pre-made, packaged and sold to the masses from a food distributor. But it was sweet and salty and familiar.






Shrimp Rolls. This was also a tasty starter that was a whole shrimp wrapped in an eggroll sheet and deep fried until golden and delicious. This was served with a sweet garlic and chili sauce on the side.





Salmon Hand Roll and Salmon Roll. A tasty hand roll with salmon and avocado.





Chicken Teriyaki. This was pounded chicken cooked in a sweet and savory soy-based sauce. Meaty and tender, this also garnered some looks and an inquiry from the table next to us who promptly ordered the same thing.





Nigiri. Salmon, tuna, octopus and bbq eel had the smallest smear of wasabi and pressed into some rice. Very good one-bite pieces.





Salmon & Potato Roll and Avocado Roll. This was when it started getting a little interesting. The salmon roll had imitation crab inside and was topped with crumbled potato chips. I would have never thought the potato chip part would work, but it wasn't terrible. The avocado roll had imitation crab inside. Also not bad.





Smoked Salmon Roll and Cured Roe Roll. The strangeness continues with smoked salmon on top of this roll. This is also probably what happens when one travels and one orders without fully understanding the menu. The cured roe roll was good and familiar tasting.





Ristorante Punto Nave
Via Libero Bovio, 23, 80078 Monterusciello NA
In a somewhat sketchy-looking neighborhood was this very upscale oasis of a seafood restaurant. The initial entrance looked like a fish store with tanks of live sea creatures, a scale and a man in a plastic apron. Once through that area, the restaurant dining room was grandly flourished with small, decorative lighting, dark-wood shelves of wine, champagne and whisky and well-dressed servers. We had a fantastic meal here and the service was exceptional. Even though not a lot of English was spoken by the servers, they still made a great effort to please.


Collesi Bionda Beer. This was an unpasteurized beer, made with barley and naturally fermented in the bottle. This may have been the fanciest beer, served in the fanciest way--in a wine glass fully equipped with a chrome ice bucket on a stand; similar to the type used for champagne. The floral notes of hops and pear were delicate and the light finish of honey was short but sweet.





Appetizer Sampler. From left to right: beautifully fried and flaky baccala atop sauteed spinach, a wide strip of bacon that was cooked till crisp, rolled with pine nuts and peppers and served on top of a ragu of olives and tomatoes. Then there's the perfectly cooked calamari filled with pork, cream sauce and bread crumbs with a garnish of fresh thyme. The warm octopus salad was at the end with thinly shaved slices of octopus, tossed with olive oil and vinegar and topped with micro greens. Everything was perfectly prepared, presented and seasoned.




Fried Dough with Tomato Sauce. After a misunderstanding of what the server was asking, we received this dish, rather than what was supposed to have been pasta. We still accepted the dish, as I believed I mistakenly said "no pasta", rather than "pasta okay". I was actually quite impressed that the chef came up with this on the fly. This was fried bread or pizza dough, topped with tomato sauce and pecorino romano. It was light, crisp on the outside and chewy on the inside.




Fish Sliders. Another amazing gesture from the kitchen and staff for their lack of English-speaking ability. I was deeply humbled and appreciative of all their efforts to communicate and provide excellent service. We did not order this dish, nor was it on the menu, but we were presented with these sliders before our entrees arrived. Of course, we accepted gratefully, and they were delicious golf ball-sized sliders with fresh white fish of some sort, sauteed greens, bacon and cheese between buttery, brioche buns. Two bites of heaven.





Linguine with Lobster. The live lobster was shown to us for our approval before it was dispatched and deliciously prepared for our pasta dish. The tasty sauce was comprised of garlic, tomatoes, white wine, olive oil and the lobster brain, which gave it an extra umami kick. It had wonderful, rich, seafood flavor. We also received a little extension for our table with a separate plate for the lobster shell.





Limoncello. Even though I was stuffed to the gills after this amazing meal, Limoncello just sounded like a really nice ending. This one was sweet, lemony, and boozy enough to keep me happy for a while.




Italy was a great food experience. I think I brought more groceries home from Italy than from any other county I've visited. I learned I can only eat so much pasta and pizza, but there were other options to keep my palate interested and the regional differences in similar dishes were very interesting to learn about.